Finding John Muir — paperbacksherpa

Discovering for myself one man’s singular passion and purpose.

Half Dome, Cable Route, Yosemite National Park

When I finally entered Yosemite Valley and witnessed its beauty with my own eyes, it was as if the entire world stood still. Just for a moment, just for me. I recognized in myself an instant connection to it - I felt as though I was a child again, marveling at something new, yet familiar to my soul. John Muir was correct (in speaking of Yosemite) when he said “no holier temple has ever been consecrated by the heart of man” (Muir, 2017, p.8). I felt his words in my chest as I gazed down upon it. Foolish as it may seem, there are those who would view a trip to Yosemite as commonplace - its wonders no more special than any other - I do not. My journey towards this sacred valley was years in the making - years of dreams, plans, setbacks and hopes - and as I see it now, all necessary to make that moment a reality. Personally, I was at one of the lowest points in my life, coming to terms with the past (and past mistakes) in order to move forward. Some particularly bad choices had caused me to lose focus on important goals, the first of which was to travel and see the world. Images crept back into my mind. Long-lost dreams flooded my consciousness. Plans began to form. The time had come to make those dreams a reality. There was an urgent need for clarity and focus, perhaps to gain a new perspective. What better way to start anew than to take a trip to the wild - to the unknown. For the first time in a long time, I was truly exited about something, and I wasn’t letting anything get in my way.

Hamming it up on the St. Mary’s lake hike, Glacier NP

Time is of the essence -

After a tumultuous 2011, I hit the proverbial reset button on my life, bound and determined to fulfill a few personal goals that had eluded me in my earlier years. I was 42, recently divorced, and tired of wasting precious time. When I started researching national parks as a vacation destination, Yosemite and Glacier grabbed my attention as few things had before. I remember the feelings evoked by those first images, sitting there in awe before my computer screen. Pictures of “the Crown of the Continent” and Yosemite Valley filled my mind with awe, inspiration, and thoughts I can only describe as overwhelming. Not in the fearful sense (although, as I would learn, there are plenty of things to fear in the wild), but overwhelming due to the enormity and scale of such wilderness. Growing up in the small town, pre-internet world of Grant Park, Illinois, I didn’t get much, if any, exposure to the wider world. For example, take one of my favorite pastimes, mountain biking - I didn’t know what a real mountain bike was until I was in my early thirties - not to late to enjoy it, but to late to really be able to submerse myself (competitively) in the culture, the races, the all of it. I had no clue about Moab, Whistler, or what it would have been like to ride a brand new Schwinn Homegrown Factory (they were the “holy grail” of mountain bikes in their day). In the same respect, my life (and my geography) had provided me with nearly zero experience in hiking, solo backpacking, map reading, etc. If this was to be an enjoyable experience, I would have to dive into the deep end of the pool and learn quickly. Good news is, learning about practically any subject nowadays is easy - if it’s been done, there is a YouTube video on the subject. I absorbed everything I could on a vast array of outdoor skills, becoming familiar with a host of excellent “YouTubers” in the process. I also read a great deal - magazines like Backpacker and Outside became household staples, filling me with info and inspiration. After debating the pros and cons of a trip scheduled for early September (not being able to see the waterfalls of Yosemite at their peak was a huge part of the decision), I chose Glacier. Glacier, with all its promise, was the perfect fit. Finally, I was going to do something, and go someplace truly epic. I, along with my father, started planning the trip immediately - the excitement of that day stayed with us throughout our vacation, and lingers to this day. That visit changed everything for me…

**My father Gary getting to know one of the locals in Whitefish, Montana**

Journey interrupted, sort of -

While still in awe of visiting Glacier, I wasted no time in starting to plan my next trip. Since that experience was so life-changing, I thought it was a foregone conclusion that I would return again the following year. After considerable thought, I felt that it was more important to see and experience new places, so I turned my sights towards Yosemite. As it turns out, the best laid plans can often fail, or in my case, be put on hold. 2013 was a year to take care of other priorities (bills, always bills!) - so I chose more modest destinations to visit. Trips to Smoky Mountain National Park and Mackinac Island were exciting in their own right (I have come to love them both, and have visited them many times now). 2014 saw me returning once again to familiar territory. When my son had requested for his graduation present a trip to Glacier, it was settled - Yosemite would have to wait - again. Truth be told, I wasn’t entirely upset. I had always wanted to do a classic American road-trip out west. So, beginning in late June, we hopped on I-80W and spent sixteen days seeing America from our car windows as we drove from state to state. After leaving Illinois, I saw that which I had only read about or had seen on tv - the Mississippi River, the vast plains of Iowa and South Dakota, the iconic and sobering Mt. Rushmore, the foothill grasslands of Montana and the rugged beauty of North Dakota and Minnesota. Returning to Glacier was even more amazing now, as it was a shared experience with my son and brother. We experienced a bucket-list hike to Crypt Lake and drove all around Glacier, visiting Whitefish, Kalispell, West Glacier, Lake McDonald, Logan Pass, St. Mary’s and Waterton Lakes, Canada.

**My son Noah and I on the trail in Glacier National Park, 2014**

While the road trip was breathtaking, being cooped up in a car for an extended period of time forced me to come to terms with a serious medical condition. I had been having nagging pain in my lower back all through 2013 - 2014. Initially, I thought it was from the intense training I did for an Xterra triathlon. I then just chalked it up to the fact that I was getting older. I thought this condition was something I was just going to have to get used to - that this was the “new normal”. However, after months of steadily increasing pain, I realized it was more than just nagging back pain, and doing nothing was not an option. I finally broke down and went to get answers. After four more months of debilitating pain, chiropractic adjustments, missed work and doctor visits, the diagnosis was a herniated disc that would require surgery. After evaluating the options, I chose to have a procedure called a microdiscectomy at the earliest possible date. When it was over, my doctor remarked “that was the largest chunk of disc material I have ever removed” and “it was a wonder you could walk at all”. Thanks to the brilliant Dr. Deutsch at Rush Presbyterian in Chicago, I walked out of that hospital two hours after my surgery. I was a new man, with a new lease on life, and I didn't waste any further time chasing down those dreams.

Making a somewhat difficult choice -

Growing up, my family never took vacations in the traditional sense. Yes, we drove down to visit family in Arkansas a few times, but a real destination vacation was never possible. Now that I had the time and means to travel, the possibilities seemed endless. Speaking of possibilities, another interesting thing about watching YouTube is that it lists “similar” videos to the one you’ve just watched. Some that grabbed my attention were of hikes in the Swiss Alps, the Himalayas, the Italian Dolomites and the Southern Alps of New Zealand. Suddenly, and not surprisingly, I wanted to go everywhere at once. Now I had other destinations competing with Yosemite. It was then that I stumbled upon Ken Burns’ documentary “The National Parks - America’s Best Idea”. That series filled me with so much inspiration and national pride that I shelved the idea of international travel for the near future. Sure, I’d love to see those exotic destinations and hike all those amazing trails, but with travel outside the country so cost prohibitive (and the fact that the national parks held the kind of adventure I was looking for anyway) it made perfect sense to stay right here - right in my own big backyard. The die was cast. I was finally going to Yosemite, the place Muir thought of deeply enough to devote his life to preserving. Would I find it as wondrous as he did? Would it enthrall me the same way? I had a feeling it would. Through Burns’ poignant documentary, I became captivated with his character, words and exploits in and around Yosemite Valley. It was pure gold to me, providing plenty of inspiration to not only learn more about the man, but to emulate some of his ideas. It was high time to finally see for myself what he found so special.

Bucket list achieved…on top of Half Dome seven months after back surgery.

Yosemite also provided something I needed for my recovery after back surgery - a goal. Climbing Half Dome (via the Cable Route) seemed the perfect way to test my new back. A few people thought I was crazy to try it, but I had to know if I had the physical and mental strength to finish such a strenuous hike. One way or another - I’d find out. For now, it was back to planning and research. Although necessary, all that research had a side effect - while it filled me with awe, wonder and excitement, it made the wait excruciating. You’ve been there right? Planning a vacation to an exotic destination - months, if not years ahead - you do the planning, reserve it, budget, pay, and then w…a…i…t. While it can be frustrating to wait, I found that it can also be rewarding to dream. Months leading up to my trip were spent refining plans, purchasing gear, learning and training. Looking back, I needed that time. Choosing which trails to hike, logistics, gear choices, scheduling, buying passes, cardio training, entering the Half Dome Cable Route permit lottery (finding out that there is a Half Dome Cable Route permit lottery), etc…all those activities took time and careful consideration.

**My wife Amy enjoying the Ahi Tuna steak at Mesa Grill, Las Vegas**

Getting there - the portal to Yosemite. Las Vegas or Los Angeles -

I know what you’re thinking - there are other cities that one could fly in to that would provide access to Yosemite. Nevertheless, I’ve found that when factoring in cost, flight choices and other amenities, these two stood above the rest. Both cities have some advantages when choosing a portal for traveling to Yosemite. From Las Vegas (depending on the time of year), you can either take a southern or northern route based on what you’d like to see. The southern route takes you past Red Rocks Canyon, impressive views of the Ivanpah Solar Electric Generating System, the Mojave Desert and offers access to Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. The northern route takes you through (or near) Death Valley National Park, views of the eastern Sierras, past Mono Lake, and then onto the Tioga Road from Lee Vining all the way to Yosemite. Traversing Rt. 120, with differing landscapes along its length, is one of the most scenic highways you’ll ever witness - every mile is postcard worthy (Olmsted Point delivers an outstanding, lesser known view of Half Dome). Speaking of those “other amenities”, if you have a night or two in Vegas before you leave, I recommend a stay at the Hard Rock Hotel (stay in the HRH Tower - the in-room “Tea for Two” tubs are alone worth the stay) and dinner at Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill - that restaurant provided one of the best dining experiences I’ve ever had.

As for Los Angeles, you have one of the largest cities in the world - with all its culture and lights, the calm beauty of Pasadena (I highly recommend the Hotel Constance and Cafe Verde - for some amazing eats, try the Pork Belly tacos and Coconut pancakes), the Pacific Ocean (for a fun time, check out the Harbor seals at La Jolla beach), the San Gabriel Mountains (take a day hike up Mt. Baldy), and the existential thrill of LA traffic if you land at the wrong time (just kidding, it’s always bad!). If you want a truly memorable experience while in LA, take a trip up to the Mt. Wilson Observatory at night to see one of the best sights you’ll find - if the conditions are right, you will see the entire city lit up beneath you in a soft glow. At the time of this writing, I still do not have a favorite between these two cities. Whatever route you take, be sure to spend time immersing yourself in the local charm - or as I like to say, “getting your hands in the dirt” - you’ll be surprised at what you find.

**When driving on a road you’ve always wanted to drive on…**

Entering Muir’s “Temple” -

There’s a reason why John Muir referred to it as a “temple”. It has the power to draw us in, and in some etherial way, helps us to consider ourselves in context to such a transcendent place, and ultimately, the larger world. Seeing Yosemite Valley for the first time is something you will never forget. After rounding one of the many bends in the road on my way from Oakhurst, I was compelled to stop the car at the first sight of Half Dome. Thinking of this moment since I first planned the trip, I couldn’t get out of the car fast enough. I parked, grabbed my camera, and walked a little up the road to get the perfect vantage. Like so many others, I had seen pictures of that iconic face so many times - but nothing prepared me for seeing it in real life. As I stood there, with that beautiful mountain visible in the distance, tears ran down my face from the sheer emotion of the moment. I thought to myself - it can’t get any better than this - but then it dawned on me…I wasn’t even to Tunnel View yet! To get to that view, to what many consider one of (if not the most) amazing views on earth, you first have to drive through Wawona Tunnel, a nearly mile long tunnel blasted through solid granite. The anticipation created by driving through this sensory deprived area only makes the reveal of the worlds most beautiful valley all the more satisfying. Tunnel View does not, did not, won’t ever, disappoint.

I forced myself back into the car and drove deeper into the valley, taking my time getting over to my accommodations at Camp Curry. Stops at Bridalveil Falls, El Capitan and the Swinging Bridge made for a great start to my week-long stay.

**St. Mary’s Lake, Glacier NP, just off of Going to the Sun Road - this is one of my favorite places on earth**

Getting over the fear of the unknown, hiking in the wilderness -

There is something to be said about entering a true wilderness. Glacier taught me a few things about dealing with the fear of sharing the trails with things that might eat or injure you. At one point on the Swiftcurrent Nature Trail, my father and I had to turn around and end our hike short. A large male moose, sitting just off the trail, was being confrontational if hikers would try to walk past, creating a dangerous situation for everyone (his mate was just across the trail in the lake). Be prepared…for sure. Make noise…maybe. Be alert…always. Are the chances good that you may have a serious encounter on your hike? Perhaps. Are these chances any greater than getting shot in Chicago? Probably not. Point is, at the end of the day, there is only so much you can do if you are confronted by a wild animal. Before your trip, learn what to do in these situations - you can’t learn on the fly. When stepping out on the trail you have to keep in mind, odds being what they are, the benefits of your well planned hike outweigh the potential dangers. Don’t get too worked up about it…just breathe…and enjoy the trail.

**Upper Yosemite Falls and Half Dome, as seen from the Yosemite Falls trail.**

My first real hike in Yosemite was the Panorama Trail from Glacier Point down to the valley floor - all things considered, a safe hike. This hike is known for its amazing views, relative ease, and popularity - these factors made it an ideal choice. When new to an area, it’s good to acclimate yourself by tackling some of the less strenuous hikes first - you will be more at ease when the trail is loaded with other hikers - safety in numbers, as they say. Before heading down the Panorama, I stood for a long time just fixated on the view before me, trying to be “present” in that moment, reflecting on being in the same place that President Teddy Roosevelt and John Muir stood in amazement more than a century ago. A couple days later, on my way to Half Dome, I remember feeling somewhat uneasy hiking the trail alone so early in the morning. This feeling was lessened by the continual amazement I found myself in - the dawn was starting to paint the mountaintops in beautiful colors, the valley coming to life before me just as I reached Liberty Cap. After that, I thought no more about any animal that I might encounter. There is so much to see in Yosemite Valley. Everywhere you turn, every trail, every meadow, every bend in the Merced, is special, sacred, and worthy of your undivided attention. During my time there, I tried to put a finger on what was different between this place and Glacier. What it boils down to (for me) is this - Glacier is rugged, raw, uncompromising, stark, dangerous and remote - a place that epitomizes true wild.

**Yosemite Valley with Half Dome in the background, just north of Cook’s Meadow**

Yosemite is polished. serene, intimate, accessible, and other-worldly - it takes time for your mind to process that what your looking at is actually real. While a comparison between these two natural wonders is valid in terms of a personal travel destination (we all have our favorites), it is not when it comes to beauty - that comparison is as pointless as comparing two perfect sunsets.

Being present in the moment -

It is painfully obvious in today’s day and age that many people don’t understand how to just “be” - whether on vacation or at home. There is a reason for the rise in popularity of sites like Headspace - the inability to separate ourselves from social media (in all its forms) is unprecedented. People seem to be caught up in living for the spurious glitter of the social media “like”, finding self-aggrandisement more important than really experiencing a place for its own sake. I witnessed numerous people in front of Yosemite Falls who scarcely looked up from their phones! I recommend doing your social media updates after the day is long over. You’re far more likely to have a meaningful connection with the land - perhaps other travelers - when you concentrate on what is before you. I was serious when I talked earlier about “getting your hands in the dirt”. I’ve actually done this in numerous places. Whether it’s intentional or just through swimming, hiking, scrambling or climbing, it’s a way of having a deeper connection with the environment - of living in the moment. Get off the beaten path. Spend time in the backcountry. Go when and where others don’t. You don’t just see it, you feel it, smell it, almost taste it - it’s simple, but profound. I think Muir took this approach in trying to experience Yosemite from every conceivable angle. What does the valley look like from Glacier point? What does El Cap look like standing just beneath it? What kind of things happen in Camp 4? You won’t know unless you put in the time to go beyond what the typical visitor sees and experiences. I remember finding this great spot in the Mariposa Grove - early in the morning - I was alone with my thoughts, ancient trees, and a small family of deer. It was one of the most peaceful mornings I’ve ever had. I would not have experienced this moment if I had not got up at 4 AM, drove half an hour and hiked to the Upper Grove and followed a small, unassuming footpath. I enjoyed it so much, I hiked to the Upper Grove twice again that day. Do what you have to do to find the interesting, uncommon, transformative moments - they will become part of you.

**A small part of my hikes in the Mariposa Grove came home with me…**

Gearing up for whatever -

Each and every time I visit a national park, I take pictures of my shoes as I’m standing on the trail, or in the water, or in the scree on a mountain approach. These candids are some of my favorite to look at when going through my travels photos, representing another way to memorialize a particular moment in time. To be honest, I love new gear. A large part of the fun in getting ready for these trips was buying and testing things out. I’m not one to worry about getting my gear scuffed or dirty - it is used for it’s intended purpose - and used well. I still have the Salomon’s that I hiked to Half Dome in for the first time. They proudly wear the scars and scrapes from numerous excursions, the dust of which is still deeply embedded in the fibers. There’s history there, albeit my own. When they are finally retired, they will hang on the wall beside my picture summiting Half Dome, a physical reminder and connection to a great moment in my life. Your expensive gear was meant to be used - used getting to the other side of wherever, so you can have those moments when it’s just you…and all of creation.

Experiencing that which I had only read about -

Everyone loves John Muir - at least anyone who is of a rational mind. The man was a lover of nature, a poet, spiritualist, conservationist of the first order, champion of the national park idea and a good steward of the earth. I sometimes wonder how he had so much energy - and then I realize how being in Glacier, the Smoky Mountains and Yosemite have energized me during my visits. I completed three major hikes in the span of six days in Yosemite Valley - yeah, my tank was a little empty, but my spirit was full. (By the way, I did make it to the top of Half Dome - and it was everything I thought it would be). When you’re in the midst of such grandeur, you are energized and nurtured by the experience itself. On one of my rest days, I grabbed my camera and took the shuttle to El Capitan Meadow. I spent the better part of that day wandering here and there within a half mile area taking photos, eating lunch, staring up at the rock face - never once thinking “what’s next?”. Places such as this are great to do very little - yet feel as though you’ve done it all - quality over quantity. I thank God for a man like Muir who spent his life’s energy to help preserve that special place in its pristine condition. He did so because he felt an inescapable draw to the land itself - it was love at first sight. If it wasn’t for him, Yosemite Valley, and other natural wonders like it, would cease to exist. We (Americans in particular) owe him a great debt for having the foresight to sense the rising tide…and the perseverance to keep fighting against it. A large part of what Muir was trying to do by extolling the virtues of Yosemite was to inspire us to experience the natural world as a child would. If we’re able to do this purely and innocently, we will take to heart the absolute precious gift it is.

**In awe - my first view of Half Dome as seen from Wawona Rd. Never lose your sense of “wonder”**

As we grow older, we sometimes loose our capacity to simply “wonder” at the natural world, or even the universe, simply taking it for granted. In an age of rapid and profound technological advancement, we can marvel at any number of man-made inventions, creations and discoveries. Each year, the “book of science” (as my old biology teacher called it) doubles in size. In terms of information and media - the number and scope of ideas competing for our attention is greater than ever before - and while having a supercomputer/media/entertainment hub in your pocket is cool, it is nothing compared to walking amidst towering sequoias, or standing before El Cap, or spending an afternoon before the majesty of Yosemite Falls. If you want to experience that feeling of wonder again, take a road trip to the nearest national park and take a hike - you’ll find it somewhere on the trail. I have been blessed to see a few of these national treasures for myself - my hope is that you do the same - and discover them for yourself. John Muir said “going to the mountains is going home” (Muir, 1901, p1) - I couldn’t agree more. I’ve found so much to love when I’m in their midst - whether it’s the Sierras or the Smokies - they’ve become home to me as well…and I’m always needing to get home.

**Somewhere on the trail in Yosemite National Park**

In visiting Yosemite, I found the spirit of John Muir alive and well - in the valley itself, in the rangers who work there, in the eyes of other visitors. In the end, I realized I had met that spirit before I ever arrived, in every quiet natural place I’d been to - and will so again, in all the wondrous places yet to see.

References

John Muir (2017). “The Yosemite: John Muir's quest to preserve the wilderness”, p.8, Vertebrate Publishing

John Muir (1901), “Our National Parks”, p.1.